We were thrilled to make our first 'post trail'  presentation at the Alzheimer Society's Donor Recognition evening. We are have raised over $27,500 to date and hope that we can increase that by the end of the year.

Arlene and I provided an introduction to the trail and then we played a slideshow of just over 20 minutes. It was a moving and emotional journey over the 2190 miles/3520 kilometers of the trail. Everyone seemed to love it and there were so many questions we couldn't answer them all. 

Two months after completing the trail the memories still slip into my mind at the most unexpected moments. Last night, sitting outside enjoying the sunset in the cool autumn air I had a strong urge to set up my tent and crawl into my sleeping bag to enjoy the sounds of the night.

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
We are so overwhelmed by your incredible support of our Walk to Remember. Our heart felt thanks to everyone, almost 100 people, who have donated already. We hope that this number will increase as we continue to raise funds through the end of the year.

I would like to express my personal thanks and gratitude to the generosity of members of the Sohmen Strollers and particularly Dr. Helmut Sohmen for his donation of $10,000USD to this effort. Helmut is the patriarch of the Sohmen Strollers, a wonderful informal international walking group in Hong Kong that Barry and I (Anda) have had the privilege to be a part of for 14 years. Helmut was in his early 60's when we first met him and he was a formidable walker, able to out-walk pretty much everyone in the group, through the extensive network of mountainous trails of Hong Kong that he knows so well. His passion and commitment to walking and his encouragement of friends, colleagues and diplomats to participate for pleasure companionship and personal health has been inspirational. Thank you Helmut.

If you have enjoyed our journey please do share this with your friends and ask them to donate one cent per mile or $21.89. Everything counts and no amount is too small. Donations can be made here.

If you can make a donation to our Walk to Remember we would be so grateful since from the outset this incredible journey has been about far more than our ability to do it. We wanted it to make a difference and create a legacy. Please help us help those who lose the very essence of their lives.

You could sponsor us for a penny a mile which would be $21.87. Please take a moment to help make a difference by clicking the "PLEASE DONATE", button on the right side of this web-page.

To give you an idea of some of what we have summitted: the peaks of the Franconia Range, the Presidential Range including Mt Webster (3910') Mt Jackson (4052'), Mt Pierce/Clinton (4312'), Mt Franklin (5004'), Mt Monroe (5163'), Mt Washington (6288'), Thunderstorm Junction (5500') and Mt Madison (5366'). and the 4 peaks of the Wild Cat Range and Carter Dome (4832') and its 2 other peaks (4510' & 4539'). All this since Monday. It is small wonder that our knees and feet are in pain and legs are like rubber.

After walking the entire day over the Webster peaks and ridge in first rain then clouds and relentless wind we arrived at Lakes of the Clouds Hut just below the peak of Mt Washington. At over 5000 ft it is always cold here and the wind never stops. We were fortunate to secure 'work for stay' positions which allows us to sleep for free on the floor of the main room and any left over food after paying guests are done. The work we are asked to do is trivial so many thru-hikers try to get these accommodations. Having walked in the clouds all day it was spectacular when the sky cleared in the early evening and we could see the mountains clearly.

We have been extremely lucky in the Whites having enjoyed 3 perfect clear days and 2 damp and misty ones.

Arriving at the far side of a footbridge over a stream I was confused by the signage and asked a couple behind me where the 112 was. They said I was near the lodge and 118 and had no idea where the 112 was. Dismayed I realized that I was a serious climb of 3 hours away from where I should be, they kindly offered to drive me to the rendezvous point about 30 minutes away.

I was worried that Arlene, who could not possibly have made the same mistake, would arrive at the meeting point and wonder where I was since I was ahead. My 'trail magic' ride delivered me and Greg was waiting but no Arlene. Which meant that she too had taken the wrong trail.

After some deliberation Greg decided to drive over to the place I had come out near a lodge and I would stay at the rendezvous place incase she arrived. Not 30 seconds later she arrives in a car with a young people we met at the top, who had parked on the far side of the mountain near the lodge and offered to drive her over.

What could have been a nasty situation resolved itself through the kindness of others. We have been fortunate to have experienced so much generosity from strangers on the trail. Thank you we are so grateful.

Nynke is here for 4 days and is enjoying walking some miles on the AT with us. Not having seen us for 4 months she was a bit shocked at how thin we are, both having lost about 25 lbs.

Two states to go! 434 mi/698km
The real mountains are just ahead and will be an extreme test of our resilience and fortitude. The challenge of carrying enough calories up the 4-6000ft peaks of the White Mountains to sustain our effort is daunting. However, Mt Katahdin we're on our way!

With less than 500 miles to go we hope that all of you who are following our epic adventure will consider making a donation. You can donate and receive a tax receipt by clicking the 'Please Donate' button on the right side of this website.

Finally back to real mountains in preparation for the Whites in New Hampshire. When the rain stops everything looks lovely!

Those of you who remember the marvelous work of the Forest Flower Fairies from our early blog posts on our blog will recall how they created an enchanting ever changing daily garden of flowers for us to enjoy as we walked from winter through spring into summer.

Today we found their summer condos. Spectacular structures of innovative architecture. Beautifully appointed and maintained in vibrant colours or crisp white. We knew these were fairy recreation places because they were so beautiful, even though we didn't see the fairies who are masters of disguise. They must have been enjoying the water in the pond.

Also a small selection of the flowers we have enjoyed.

Pennsylvania - DONE
New Jersy - DONE
New York - DONE
Connetecuit - DONE

 Today is Day 96 of this epic journey. We won't be in wifi contact again until June 22.

How many Trail Angels are out there? Please donate to help us raise money for research to battle the terrible disease called Alzeimers.

2015appalachiantrail.jimdo.com is where you can go, click on the 'Please Donate' button on the Home page or under the About Alzeimers tab (you will be linked to a secure page and will receive a tax receipt) become a Trail Angel on our donor list.

Reached High Point State Park at 830 this morning note the obelisk signifying the grand elevation (highest point in NJ-1679ft/512m).

More fantastic fungi and lots of boardwalks. We walked along the NJ/NY stateline and finished early in the town of Unionville where they ley you camp in the park behind the Village office. Temperatures threatened 92F/33C so we called it quits after a short day of 13 miles/21km.

This is really fun walking with something new and different around every corner.

It has been very dry here we have heard from many locals, so while we are discouraged with the arrival of the rain we know it is important for farmers. Cooking in the tent is a bit risky but between the rain and the mosquitoes who generally find us within about 30 seconds of us arriving and setting up our tents it is the only option. Rain all night.

We are in New Jersey and the rocks are amazingly less intense. The gypsy moth plague is horrific.

As you walk through the forest you hear the incessant sound of caterpillar poop. They are everywhere and have destroyed huge swaths of mostly oak and and maple tree foliage.

I had the thrill of observing a young black bear for several minutes (sorry the photos aren't great). In his natural environment be was trying to move a log to look for grubs. It was a great thrill and privilege.

Wow. It feels amazing to be here. 
We are back to real mountains which is slowing our progress--have to get our climbing legs back. But to be only 50 miles from New York City yet have endless views of mountains and forests is great. The bears are still active so we need to be careful about hanging our food.

An amazing walk through a massive wetlands dotted with marvelous wild flowers, through a bog and then over a mile on a board walk that was magical. All this is part of the Appalachian Trail.

Please help us to make a difference. We have put so much effort into getting this far and have about 2 months left to go. You can sponsor our Walk to Remember. All proceeds will be equally divided between Alzheimer's research and program development. Please help us make a real difference. 2015appalachiantrail.jimdo.com

Mountain laurel abounds and its amazing. Still pretty big snakes here in NJ and that psychedelic beetle is amazing but camera shy.

Jack the trail angel with sodas and beer was a welcome sight as the temperature reached 88F/31C.

Georgia - done
North Carolina - done
Tennesse - done
Virginia - done
West Virginia - done
Maryland - done 
Pennsylvania - Mile 1217.8/1960km - 4 days left!
The rocks have been ruthless in Pennsylvania but the trail magic is still wonderful! We have managed a few 20 mi and 2 x 25mi/40km days. Looking forward to leaving the rocks behind.

Really big ouch! Didn't hit the nail but the bruise seems to have lifted it anyway and I think it will come off. Really hurt for the first few days in my shoe but the pain is gone now.

We passed the midway point yesterday with the stark realization that we have a long way to go to the end. The weather is very hot and humid with afternoon thunderstorms. Getting out early is really crucial now. Some days we feel like we're rotting!

It is still so hot. We are on the trail by 730 but the air is heavy and humid. The climb out of the shelter is steep and we are sweating within 10 minutes of starting. 

The distance and heat are taking their toll we have heat rash and feet and knees are complaining loudly. It is great to be out early though since we know it will get a lot hotter.

Today is momentous. We are passing the official half way point on the trail at mile 1094.6 miles. It is a double edged sword. A great accomplishment but a a stagger realization that we still have just as far to go as that we have come. Wow,

We walk on the the state park and it is already after 5pm. We are exhausted. The hostel is a beautiful old building, a mansion actually, built in 1829. A shower and a bed have never been so attractive. We are there and very happy to rest. A grueling 23 miles today.

A great walk into Harpers Ferry, nearly the midpoint of the AT. We can't believe we are here. 

Amazed, proud and a little overwhelmed realizing that we have another nearly 1200 miles to walk. But no matter, we are here and this has been the goal from the beginning as Maine just seemed to far. Now we are ready to reset our objective north, to the end of the trail, Mt Katahdin in Maine.

Harpers Ferry is a beautiful and historically significant town just 55 miles from Washington. It is here that John Brown made his heroic stand against slavery and was hung for it. This strategic town at the juncture of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers was a military objective of both the Union and Confederate forces in the Civil War.

Tomorrow we rest. After 9 days of more than 20 miles/33km per day feet and knees desperately need a break. 

A rainy day in the forest is always more interesting when there are things to see. It is not cold so that is great and we are slack packing. The drizzle is unrelenting though and so we walk on with our eyes mostly to the ground. What is so interesting is how much richer the colours of nature are when everything is wet.

After about 8 hours of walking we have missed the trail where we need to get off to meet Greg for a pick up. We walk out to a parking area but he is not there and so we decide to walk down a gravel road but are unsure of the direction we should go. First right, after about 10 minutes a gut feeling says this is wrong, turn and go the other direction for about half an hour. We are very tired and hoping for a vehicle. A pickup truck with a very nice woman stops and we jump in the back it is wonderful as we are exhausted. The road is about 5 miles and finally comes out on the paved road. We jump out and not two minutes later Greg comes by. We are saved. Going to the hot tub to recover!

Today is our 70th day on the trail. It is a bit cool this morning but crystal clear after yesterday's rain. We are on our 7th day of +20miles. Luckily Greg's slack packing us is making it easier on feet, knees and back.

The forest seems to have exploded into a jungle of green. Most of the early spring flowers are gone replaced with flowering shrubs and trees. The poison ivy for which we have a terrible fear is growing so high that it is sometimes difficult to negotiate passing it without contact.

It will be another 7 hour day. There is the sign to notify us that the 'roller coaster' is about to begin. We have heard stories about it on the trail and now here it is. Again grateful we are just carrying 10 lbs we set out. It is unrelenting. Climbing straight up for 500 feet and then just over the top we are heading down again, I feel like I'm walking the path of a heartbeat. Again and again. I am wondering why 70 days of walking in the mountains is not making this feel easier. 

But we are anticipating with some excitement a very important milestone on the trail between the Sam Moore Shelter and a campsite. We are passing the shelter looking up the rocky unrelenting path and see nothing. Walk on, head down because on every step you could twist an ankle or trip on the rocks. We are afraid we'll miss it and are glancing up every couple of seconds. Seems like we have gone too far...there is nothing. We're climbing another slope with a turn at the top and there it is. The 1000 mile/1609km mark laid out with big stones on the ground. Clearly someone understands the risk of looking up when walking on this terrain. We are so happy, proud, incredulous, amazed and overwhelmed that while we have completed 1000 miles we still have 1189.2 miles to go. 

I am thinking 'No problem, we can do this. We didn't set out to fail and while there are any number of things that could thwart our efforts, giving up will never be one of them, no matter how hard it gets. Eveready and Unhinged, the 'old' ladies from Canada are just going to Walk On!

We are excited that today we are meeting up with Susan G., a high school friend from 41 years ago. 

It is our first morning of donning our back packs for several days. Trail Angel King Barry is heading back to Ottawa and we will miss his tireless support and care.

 It has been a great week and we have managed to walk over 100 miles. There are moments when slack packing feels like cheating but then people remind you that you are still walking every step of the trail and there is no requirement to carry anything on the trail to complete it. I feel like the few days of respite are welcome and we appreciate the help with ferrying back packs more than you can imagine. Every step you take without 35 pounds on your back reduces the stress on knees and feet tremendously. We are still tired at the end of the day and it does not seem to matter that we have been at this now for over two months it is not getting easier. We are doing more and are certainly stronger but at the end of every day, your feet are aching and your knees are sore and you can't wait to relieve yourself of the burden on your back. 

So thank you Barry for helping to lighten our load and that of some fellow hikers for a few days. We are all grateful and appreciate all the support you have provided. 

After a driving from Baltimore last night and camping out Liesha and Ivan have a special dinner planned for us at the end of a long day of walking.

Our meeting is a little flawed as we are confused as to the pick up point and end up walking a one mile section twice. But the cars appear and we are shuttled to a wonderful little log house built in 1800 called Annie's Place. Grilled organic chicken and fresh vegetables, wow, we are so happy to be spoiled this way. Thanks to Liesha and Ivan for their great angel support. 

A scarlet tanager and a yellow lady slipper are the highlights of my day. The  light is playing through the exploding canopy and creates fantastic mosaics on the ground as we walk.

 The distant hills are disappearing as the leaves fill in the open spaces that have enabled the view. It is a changing world in which we walk, many call it the green tunnel. I am happy to be protected from the sun by the growing canopy. We are walking on, over 800 miles/1300km now. 

It is still incredible that we are treated to the kindness of strangers on a regular basis. There is nowhere else that I have ever experienced this kindness and generosity. 

The drinks and snacks are often left by former thru-walkers who remember the challenge and want to give something back, or just by ordinary people who feel they would like to contribute in a small way to the success of a thru-hiker. 

We are focused on completing 10 miles before lunch as the Trail Angel King (Barry) as he has been named, is arriving at a road crossing and will slack pack us another 10 miles this afternoon. As usual Barry arrives fully prepared to support hikers with oranges and apples and lots of drinks. Gruffalo and Gigs are joining our slack packing for the next few days. They need to be in Waynesboro on the same timeline as we do and are very grateful for a few days of pack free hiking.

A quick refreshment and we are off again.

We walk along the Blue Ridge Parkway today and the trail is sometimes very close which is not our favorite. The weather has somehow jumped from early spring to summer and almost overnight it is very hot, humid and most unfortunately the black flies are relentless. 

You will have to forgive my enthusiasm for the spring flowers. For the gardeners among you I am certain you will be able to understand.

It is hot and the climb to the top of McAfee Knob it arduous. Luckily I finally have some phone connectivity so in turn call my daughters, husband and brother to catch up on what is going on in their lives, pass the time and distract me from the climb. It works. Before I know it I am at the look out. Since it is the weekend there are many day hikers here and it is quite busy. But the view is remarkable. We can see our 4 hour hike ahead of us along a ridge and over a mountain nearly opposite our present location. It is difficult to leave this place.

One of the most photographed spots on the AT is McAfees Knob. After about 3 hours of climbing you come to this incredible rock cliff that provides a vista of the mountains and valleys that is unsurpassed. We climb high once again in support of Alzheimers. 

Every night I feel the Forest Flower Fairies are out spreading their magic along the trail. The azaleas are finally blooming in their variety of pinks and intricate beauty, the dogwoods are like candles in the forest.And along the edges of the path I marvel at the horticultural expertise of the Flower Fairies, it seems they know exactly where each flower and plant will thrive and generously seed in those areas. The first pick lady slippers I see take my breath away they are so incredible. Big and bold in stature and color.

I am standing for a moment at an unpretencious memorial to Audie Leon Murphy, June 20, 1924 - May 28, 1971. Audie was America's most decorated veteran of WWII earning 24 decorations. I am quite overwhelmed by the injustice of his death in an airplane crash near this spot after all the perils he survived during the war.

I happened upon my number 4 and 5 snakes. The first a beautiful guarder lying at the side of the path watching me. He poses perfectly for the photo. Then 10 steps on I nearly step on a 4 foot long black rat snake which are very common. He doesn't stick around and I can barely catch him in the photo. I think it is incredible that I caught two snakes in pictures within 10 feet of each other. I am happy that they are present here in their world. 

There is little water on the trail today so we carry with us what we need. It is hot and the  trail is difficult in places with very steep rocky descents. I inadvertently drop my water bottle while pulling it out of my pack and stand watching in dismay as it rolls down the very steep hill out of sight. I now have about 6mi/10km tho walk with no water. I am finally approaching the road that the hostel is on and must walk another half mile along it. I am really tired and terribly thirsty. I know I can make it but it is a huge effort and I'm glad when I see some familiar hiker faces and the kind man who runs the 4 Pine Hostel. Amazing how a shower and a couple of liters of water can bring you back to life! We have passed the 700 mile mark today. 

4 Pines Hostel. A three car garage converted to hostel by a wonderful man who loves to support thru-hikers; complete with shower, fridge, microwave between the tools and a fully stocked cooler with soft drinks. As well he provides rides to and from trail heads and to the local grocery store. He accepts payment by donation only. Amazing people along the AT.

It is May 1 and again we are walking on the trail and marveling at the arrival of spring. Fascinating. The views from the top of the ridge are spectacular showing the mountain sides carved by receding glaciers as if at the hand of a gifted artist. As far as we can see there are mountains and there are waking up.

The colors of spring amplified by a light rain help to bring vibrance to replace the dull colors of winter. We are amazed by the Keffer Oak, over 300 years old, standing strong and tall, it's circumference over 18 feet and branches the size of full grown trees. This is the biggest tree in the southern Appalachian, no one knows why it was never cut. I can't help but think of the history that has passed beneath its limbs. 

The rain is more intense now and the objective is the shelter as quickly as possible. Following my rain mishap of a couple of weeks ago (where I nearly perished from hypothermia). I have "McGyvered" a mobile tent to cover me and my backpack while I'm walking from a single ground sheet, while allowing plenty of opportunity for ventilation. Duck tape features prominently in this solution. It works very well except when the wind is directly in front, then I need to wrap it tightly around myself defeating the need for ventilation. It is slow going managing the mobile tent and navigating the rock and root strewn path but I finally arrive at the shelter about 5pm only to find it completely full, mostly with a group of young women weekenders who are out for the first time and seem to have more food than equipment with them and clearly don't grasp the concept of keeping the shelter dry for sleeping. They are very pleasant and offer to move into their tents so we thru-hiker's could use the shelter. No one made a single argue to this proposal. It did stop raining and we got a fire going to dry speaking boots and clothing and a variety of roasting type sticks and walking poles. The trick is NOT to burn your socks. This might sound obvious but I am astounded at the number of hikers we have met who have managed to do just this and are walking with gaping holes in their socks. I am very attentive to my only socks hanging precariously above the flames. 

A spectacular ridge walk to Woods Hole Hostel. This 1880's chestnut lig cabin was discovered in 1940 by Roy and Tillie Wood who lived there for a year as graduate students for an annual rent of $5. They later bought the cabin and surrounding land and 40 years later after retiring and extensive renovations opened the hostel for AT thru-walkers in 1986. Their granddaughter and her husband inherited the place and continue the tradition with emphasis on sustainabl e living yhrough bee keeping, farming and organic gardening. A true jewel in the mountains that everyone looks forward to visiting. 

We have passed the 1000km / 600 mile mark today. It seems incredible that if you just start walking that you can walk this far in 47 days. 

It is a damp morning but the rain drops and clouds make the forest magical. After a solid days walking we are opting to camp near a grocery store that offers a camping site in a field with a stream and horses in the ajoining pasture, fllush toilet, shower and washing machine and dryer in a concrete block building--all for $6/night. We're on it. In addition you can buy a 40oz. Bottle of beer for $2.29, doesn't get any better! We buy beer and chips and are standing in the laundry room and wash everyghing we have. Then we throw our sleeping bags in the dryer, so lovely! 

It is really cold so time to crawl in.

Great fun at 'Hey Joe's' tonight. An amazing assortment of talent. Singing, guitar, violin, story telling, long time trail angels and our blog entry about enduring the rain which everyone could relate to and enjoyed. Walkers have come into Damascus from all over to enjoy the ambience. What a terrific evening.

It seems that if everything is perfect, it is difficult to make an interesting or entertaining post. Again we are at the trail head at 830 with 15.2 miles to go before we rest. But everything is perfect. Hot shower, slept well in a bed, had a great dinner out, breakfast prepared for us, ride to the trail, perfect weather and perfect trail conditions. 

There is nothing to report except we have achieved the incredible milestone of crossing the state line into Virginia and reaching Damascus! That is 3 states down, 11 to go. Incredible. 

We are revelling in the thought of 2 days off. No hiking boots, sweaty clothes, damp sleeping bags or food 'mush'. We are so appreciative of everything around us and how fortunate we are. We are in good heath, without injury, we are lean, mean, walking machines! We are going to Maine. It would be so great if you could support our effort with a donation to the Alzheimer Society. 

Barry has just dropped us at the trailhead for another slack packing day, we love it and it’s not raining!

There is something incredible about having lost 15-20lbs of personal weight and not having to lug an additional 30-35lbs of backpack that makes you feel like your feet are barely touching the ground. Why am I thinking this? Because, we are just climbing up from the gap, it is cool morning, I’m wearing ‘the sauna’. All of a sudden as we crest the top we are in the jet stream, I’m not kidding. The wind is so ferocious the noise is deafening. It is like being in a jet liner, except you are sitting out on the wing! I’m happy though that it is not raining, just a little worried that I might go deaf.

Eveready is walking in front of me battling the wind. She is wearing her backpack with the rain cover (just to disguise that it is empty, we slack packers feel badly about our good fortune when we meet our hiking comrades fully laden down with their packs). The wind catches the cover and starts whacking it about like a poorly trimmed sail, I am thinking she might become airborne and how would I rescue her should she be flung into a tree. At that very moment I feel myself being strangled. The sauna, clearly wanting in on the action has allowed my hood to inflate and it is now threatening to not only to strangle me but also to send me toppling backward back down the trail. I need to lose the jacket. It has worked its magic and I am soaked on the inside although the outside is nice and dry. Additionally I take off my black shirt that you have seen in all the pictures for 5 weeks as I have a clean short sleeved hiking shirt (courtesy of Trail Magic Barry).

It is a beautiful day aside from the jet stream attempting to rip our heads off. We are making great progress along the ridge with steep valleys on both sides and get momentary respite when the trail ducks down under the top of the ridge. The ridge follows high above the multi fingered lake that seems to go forever, created by the dam. I am so happy to see that the forest fairies have been busy here as well. The grass is green along the trail and the flowers are starting to appear in increasing numbers and varieties. 

Now dressed only in a very thin shirt the objective is to keep moving fast enough to ensure thermal balance, generate enough heat to offset the convective heat loss due to the jet stream.  It is a challenge. Eveready, much more practical has her jacket on. I am living constantly between freezing in the wind and boiling when I’m out of it. It is remarkable how much noise the wind makes in the trees.

As we move away from the ridge, we are passing a couple of fellow walkers who have managed to survive the rain and a night in their tent, they are not moving quickly. Everyone is only thinking about getting to Damascus. I come upon Swahili just a couple of miles from our destination. He is dragging.  There in front of us is a bear box, put out by the Baptist Church, with drinks and snacks, he is so relieved and sits down to enjoy this trail magic. I say there will likely be more magic at the road and am going on. There is Barry, with Mile Maker, Scooby and Puffin. Tailgate of the truck is down, Gatorade, oranges, peanut butter cracker snacks. He’s a natural at this.  Swahili shows up a couple of minutes later and eats and drinks more, he’s looking better and will continue for a few more miles. We are done, 16 miles in 5.5 hours. We rock!

We would like to thank everyone for their encouragement and support. It has been an amazing experience so far. We are confident that as we progress through this journey that more people will be inspired to support our effort. 

30 pounds suck. Yesterday, Anda's husband, Barry, met up with us at mile 418.5. He then drove us to a hotel (shower, beer and eats) where we celebrated our getting near Damascus Virginia. Greg my hubbie is arriving in Damascus April 16. We plan to take it easy for a few days in Damascus. Barry, will be helping us out the next few days by slack packing us, that is, we have day packs and Barry is dropping us off at a trail head then picking us up at some point later.

So despite it raining cats and dogs today, the lack of having to carry 30 lbs pack made it a wonderful day. Also the beer Barry bought and the dry hotel room and hot shower. Tomorrow we hike close to 17 miles without our packs. Another good day rain or shine.

I am looking out and it is pouring rain, not just a little, pouring! Just like yesterday morning except today we have to walk since yesterday we took the morning off. It is pouring.

 It is 630am. I am grateful that I am looking through a window and not through the door of my tent, my clothes are dry, I have slept in a bed, 4th night since March 9th. So how terrible can a little rain be. We only have 13 miles to walk and because of Barry's wonderful trail magic we will be slack packing again. It is still raining...a lot. 

Despite my stalling tactics we are at breakfast; 2 eggs, bacon, toast, waffles, oj and coffee, that should help make the walk easier, it's still raining pretty hard. At the trail head that we arrived at 2 days ago, Barry says good bye and we assure him we will be at the meeting point in about 5 hours and we set off. The rain is incessant, no let up but thankfully not what I would call torrential. 

When it is raining like this you look at your feet and about 2 feet head to make sure you don't fall on your face. I am focused on getting into a rhythm but the path is pretty much a stream so I try a different tactic. I think that if I create a mantra it will help with my feels about the rain and make the time pass more quickly. "Be one with the rain, be one with the rain, be one with the rain..." Ok that's not working. We come to a point in the path where there is a steep staircase of big rocks down towards the river and the path ahead has blue blazes. We know that blue blazes is not what we want but there are no white blazes on the steep path down. Eveready heads down a little way and comes up confirming no white blazes. There was a guy ahead of us and he went straight following the blue blazes. You have to understand that thru-walkers can create almost any reason not to go down a steep set of stairs unless it is absolutely necessary. So against our better instincts we go straight ahead and follow the guy.  A couple of hundred metres on we see him coming back towards us he says "I'm on a blue blaze trail that can't be right". (Oh man, moaned the children!) We begin to explain about the awkward unmarked intersection which he never saw. His name is Happy (I moan, remember it's still raining with some authority). We go down the stairs and sure enough there is a white blaze but not where anyone would easily see it.

We are on the path that has taken us down to a quite substantial river with a spectacular waterfall. We can see that this would be much more enjoyable on a sunny warm day but non-the-less it is impressive. We have an exciting moment of following the path around a rocky ledge which hangs over the river, then we press on. Suddenly we meet a guy who when he turns around, I think he is Father Christmas, he must be mid 70's, long white hair and beard. He could have been, this is his off peak season and walking is probably something that he could benefit from. The guy introduces himself as Moaner Boner, really!!! He goes on to explain that his real surname is Mehboner and he figured he would be moaning a lot on the trail hence, well you get it (not really sure he did).

I'm trying the mantra again to see if I can be one with the rain but really all I can think about is how nice it would be to be a reptile. No worries mate if it is cold or wet, just go with it. I am back at the problem of transition, all temperature transitions for humans suck. From warm sleeping bag to wet cold walking clothes, from dry clean clothes to wet soggy walking clothes, it's all a transition thing. Well, thankfully I am aided by getting through this transition because we are climbing. We need to climb up and over this mountain, about 2000 feet. You might recall that high-tech rain jacket I have that I call "the sauna". Well it is working extremely well. As soon as you begin to climb you get hot. These hi-tech 'breathing' jackets really don't live up to their reputation.

Within 20 minutes the sauna now has me as wet on the inside of my jacket as the rain has me on the outside. Wow, I'm thrilled because I'm through the transition. It is a bit of a slog up this mountain and I am thinking well now that I'm just as wet inside as out I really don't need the burden of all these clothes nor do I need to continue the charade of trying to stay dry, I'll just get rid of my clothes. You have time to ponder things when you walk. I was in the middle of assessing the merits of this idea when I hear some voices coming towards me and there is 19 year old Car Bomb and No Hat with a couple of friends.  They are SoBo (south bound) slack packing and cheerfully ask if I would like a coke. Gratefully. They have packed a day pack with pop and are handing them out to all their fellow walkers going the other way, cool kids. Glad I was just in the contemplation phase of liberating myself of my clothes. Shortly after I meet Cookie Monster also SoBo slack packing, he has his own mantra, F**k the rain, f**k the rain...

The top of the mountain is only a quarter hour away, the air is crystal clear and it is almost like all the colours are super amplified. It is only drizzling, for this I am happy. So when you are really wet hiking the rain runs down between you and you pack, soaking your shorts and threatening to flood your feet. I installed my gators as tightly as I dared lest my feet fall off from lack of circulation, but you know water has a way of getting in everywhere. The rain is streaming down my legs and slowly seeping into my boots. "be one with the rain, be one with the rain..."

I can see the lake, the dam is on the far side, it is a long way down, but the rain has abated slightly, no pack weight so flying down that hill. Then another reminder that there are bears in the area. We have a healthy respect for bears but secretly all thru-walkers want to see one. I am not taking any chances, I take out my phone and put on my Stan Rogers album on shuffle and maximum volume, you bear, enjoy Barrett's Privateers, Bluenose and Northwest Passage! Makes me smile. 

Coming down after 5 hours of fast walking and endless mind games I see our trail angel Barry. He has walked in from the road where he parked. Left gatorade, oranges and little cakes in the back of the truck for other hikers and has come to meet us. 

I am one with the rain. 

It's pouring rain outside and we think it is a good idea to rethink the walk we had planned, there is something so contraindicated about intentionally setting out, when you have a choice, to get soaking wet. We defer and try to catch up on all things online. Barry has picked up 3 stray thru-hikers in a cabin beside ours and invited them for breakfast. He had picked up eggs, bacon and bread yesterday when he arrived. They were so happy. 

It is just after lunch and Barry has been studying the map. All of a sudden he suggest that we could walk 6.5 miles and cut that off our walk on Friday. Interestingly the thru-walkers haven't really thought about that. But actually it is a good idea and it has stopped raining. 

We now don't think anything of walking this distance what a major difference from the first weeks when walking 10 miles a day seems huge. The drive up to TN 91 takes nearly an hour. We jump out, it's 330pm and we think we'll be done by 6, clouds lay heavy on the horizon but it is dry. The walk is easy, just a few moderate ups and downs. Barry drives around to the north side at Low Gap and walks to meet us. We are done in a record 2 and a quarter hours. Was great to get this piece done although tomorrow we have to go back and connect up to where we left off yesterday. 

Limitless salad bar at Pizza Hut is a magnet for thru-hikers. We have an amazing pizza as well. Unfortunately they don't have beer so we drink water, beer is in the room :)

The days are long and the signs of spring are everywhere. The forest floor is beginning to erupt with plants and flowers but the dead leaves are still omnipresent at higher altitudes. Leaves are bursting forth painting the hills with a rainbow of colour. We can are still able to see through the forest to the distant hills. A deer, looks curiously at us but does not linger. The irises are a startle of color in an otherwise still beige leafy trail.

The sun is warmer and the trail angels continue to bring smiles to the faces of hikers who are fortunate enough to come upon the bounty they have generously left. The pineapple was worth carrying out an empty can for!

It is early and we are walking before 8. It will be our longest day but there is a shower and bed at the end of the trail. The third night in a bed since March 8! Everyone is heading to a hostel tonight. There trail is beautiful, when we are above 3000ft there is almost no indication that spring is arriving at lower altitude. The forest floor is a carpet of beige dead leaves. It is overcast which is great so we don't get too hot. 

Wild Thing takes a break on bench placed to honour a former thru-hiker. The view of the valley is beautiful from here. I'm sure it is a comfortable place for his family and friends to come and remember.

There are bigger streams and the path takes so many different forms. We are highly motivated to reach Dennis Cove Road. Barry is our Trail Angel and has just driven 2 days to reach us. He meets us on the path. I suggest that there are other walkers coming down the path and he goes and picks up a couple of cases of beer. The smiles are priceless as they all step off the trail and Barry is there with a bottle of beer. Scooby, Puffin, Remedy, Wild Thing, Mile Marker and Loon. Their packs are in the truck and Barry runs them up to their hostel. 

Our longest day yet! The shower is amazing.

It is a cold morning but clear and the view of the barn and people sleeping in their hammocks is lovely and calm. We are motivated, we have 10 miles to walk in 4 hours. Over 2 balds. We are out of oatmeal so snack on a few random things we're carrying a cereal bar, almonds, dried fruit. We're off. 

We climb immediately and are quickly served with expansive views in all directions. The bald is a challenge and as we get over the top we see a second even higher one ahead. The wind is ferocious. It is tearing at us as we climb. It is coming from the east and is so strong that it constantly has us unbalanced and threatens to throw us over. Our left pole is permanently planted to the side to stay upright. The top seems unattainable. Every time you think you are at the top it is a false one. Finally, the top. It is impossible to stay there since the wind is relentless. Flying down the other side we are seeking the safety of the trees to break the wind. 

It is sad to get off the top and lose all the views that are so spectacular. But we have a goal. My friend and former colleague, Gary Garber, sent me a text a couple of days ago and offered to meet up with us and take us for lunch. Gary and his wife Marra were one of our first 'mile' sponsors. He and his son Sam have driven 3 hours from Raleigh NC to meet us, our first visitors on the trail since we left March 9th. We are so excited and the miles fly by on the way to the gap. It is a perfect day, sunny, clear and the terrain is stunning. Coming down we see more and more evidence of spring.

And then there they are hiking up the trail, Gary and Sam. I haven't seen Gary for 13 years since he and his wife were on their honeymoon in Hong Kong. It is great to see him and he has brought apples, bananas, oatmeal and cheese. What great trail magic. We are having lunch at a local diner in Roan Mountain town and have a fantastic bbq pork sandwich, fries and coleslaw, the best ever. It is a wonderful visit and we are so happy to have visitors.

Gary and Sam help us with pictures of our Alzheimer flag and now we are off again. We have 6 miles to reach our camp site and with an hour and a half break and a fantastic lunch for fuel we are enjoying the climb up with blooming trees and flowers everywhere. We finally reach the river and are looking for a place to camp. It is still early enough after we get our tents set up to have a quick wash in the river. Our friends of the last few days start showing up. We are all sitting around the fire and enjoying a fantastic evening, suddenly the peepers start, the frogs are singing to beat the band. It is the most wonderful sound to go to sleep to. What a great day on the trail.

There is no weather that we cannot overcome. We are not deterred by the rain. It is a great day when the mist veils the path and plays tag between the trees. When the rain begins in ernest we make a run for the shelter with many others and crawl into sleeping bags to warm up. Another day on the trail.

1.  I find that I am talking to things as if they could converse with me. For example, I was hiking alone 2 days ago and was about to round a corner and heard loud crashing in the woods. I stopped cold thinking I was about to have my first bear encounter. Eek! So I made noise and gingerly rounded the corner when more noise came from above me. I looked up and to my great relief, there were 2 deer rushing off. So what did I do? I thanked the deer for being deer and not a mama bear with cubs. Out loud!

Another example, I saw a massive tree on the trail and commented to it:"my you are big, can I take your picture?". Then took the picture and thanked the tree! Yup, I am really gelling with the AT!

More observations later. I just want to thank you all for the cheers and words of encouragement. Hiking 10 to 16 miles a day is hard (brutal) work. No walk in the park. You are cold, you are hungry, thirsty, tired of hauling a heavy pack, hot and sweaty and in pain. What keeps us going is your support and our commitment to raising a whole lot of $ for a good cause.

2.  My most favourite thing to do, after eating supper, is to climb into my sleeping bag and going to sleep by sundown which is before 8 pm. You have to remember that I hate mummy sleeping bags because they are so restrictive. I like to be able to move my legs. So I was thrilled to buy the Marmot plasma bag because it was wider at the hips but reticent that I would still feel claustrophobic every night. Well I am loving it. It is warm, roomy enough and soooo comfy. I am asleep within minutes of zipping myself in and hate having to climb out in the morning.

 — feeling fabulous.

3. I have begun to meditate as I walk and my mantra is "ohm my pack is too heavy, ohm my damn pack is too heavy, ohm of someone would carry the heavy pack..." You get the gist.

 — feeling silly.

Going to Hot Springs today, everyone is looking forward to it. First real resupply and hopefully a bed to sleep in. The trail is good and even for awhile then we are climbing Walnut Mountain. It sneaks up on you. When you are walking, all of a sudden you are going up and then you are climbing another mountain. That's what we do everyday. Up the mountain, down the mountain, sometimes a little respite with some relatively flat bits, but mostly it is up or down.

We are over Walnut and going down the other side when all of a sudden we are climbing up again, up Bluff Mountain. A huge downhill with out the benefit of switch backs rams your toes into the front of your boots and makes your knees feel like they will explode. Down is worse than up on the joints, up tests our cardiovascular stamina.

There are Plyo and Apogee, they have skipped 30m in the Smokeys and will finish that in the fall. Our single focus on getting to Hot Springs is overwhelming, no stops, just relentless pushing on. We are at the hostel and there is only one room left. Eveready gets the room Unhinged is camping. A big group is already here, the beer is flowing and the stories are being retold. We are in town, had a shower, great meal at the diner, it feels great. 

It is our zero day, when you don't hike at all, just the second one since we started. We are having an enormous breakfast. On our way back we stop in at the hikers ministry where they have wifi, a computer and fresh cookies and coffee. It's packed. Send the day updated this blog and on our way back to the hostel we pick up some supplies. Dinner at the tavern on the river, a whole group of hikers come in. Hot Springs is a hiker town. Everyone is so friendly and helpful. We are ready to head out tomorrow.

View from Max Patch Bald

Light creeps into the valley, all is perfectly still, so much better than sleeping in a shelter. The routine is now so second nature that the transition from sleeping shirt, tights and socks to walking shirt, pants and socks is automatic. Stuff the sleeping bag into the sack, deflate the air mattress, light stove to boil water for oatmeal and tea. It is a beautiful morning, a little chilly but nothing like the the bone numbing cold of the Smokeys. It is 8:15 and we are walking, it will be a long day.

There is nothing like a 1200 ft climb right out of the campsite to warm you up from cool to sweating. The grade is not too steep and at the top we are on Snowbird Mountain. Over the top and down to Groundhog Shelter, 5 miles, in about 2 hours, our speed is improving. Feeling great, the sun is out but it's not too hot. The path is gentle with switchbacks which provide much relief for strained achilles tendons when climbing straight up. At the top of Max Patch Bald we have amazing views 360 degrees around. It is impossible to show in a photo. It is so big and the ribbons of mountains one behind the other into the distance. There are many day hikers here to enjoy the view and a fitful day out on a perfect spring day.

We are pushing on 2.3 miles past Roaring Fork Shelter to get a jump on the distance for tomorrow. Suddenly the forest floor is a carpet of tiny white flower, marvellous. As we descend we notice day by day that spring is coming to the mountains, so many different plants, you will have to endure as we post pictures of these beautiful little flowers. The next few weeks promise a plethora of colour and endless variety as the spring flowers begin to bloom and life returns to the mountains. We are grateful for another dry day, dare we wish for one more?

What a nightmare night. It is morning and sleep has been elusive. The backpacker with the car camping equipment and 50-60lbs of extra personal weight has been snoring for the last 14 hours. Not just a little but enough to shake the shelter and keep everyone both top and bottom bunks awake all night! Poor fellow showed up last night and was so inept and had so much stuff that he decided to lift his entire pack up onto the bear lines, we were sure they would collapse. 

We are out early, our last afternoon in the Smokey Mountains and mandatory night in a shelter (can't wait to be back in our tents). There is a crazy long downhill to Green Corner Road to resupply, our spirits are high, it is beautiful weather. We start off in snow and a miraculous metamorphosis into spring as we descend. Flowers are beginning to poke through the otherwise dead-leaf carpet of the forest floor. We are passing the northern border of the Smoky Mountain National Park and it feels a bit sad. What an experience. Today we are walking through all the seasons snow, mud, incredible views, spring flowers, feels again like walking through a movie set with someone constantly changing the weather. 

And finally we arrive at the funny little out of the way place at Green Corner Road. Priorities, a beer is our first purchase. We are looking at their larder and picking out what has become our staple food, a pasta or rice side (just add hot water), instant noodles and a foil packet of tuna. All prepared in one pot and tastes relatively bland. But we have lucked out and found wild chives growing everywhere and realise that everything tastes better with lots of chives!

Now we are camped by a stream. So lovely, the gang from the shelter has showed. All is good.

What a difference a day makes. Everyone was wearing all their clothing in sleeping bags last night but it turned out that was not necessary. It is morning but no one is moving. Likely traumatized by days of cold. It is misty when we set out, hands are freezing and everything is wet. It is crazy walking the trail is a stream or a skating rink or a mud bath. It is windy and cold. Water and ice is dropping off the trees and the wind whips the clouds across the path. 

There is no place to stop or rest everything is wet with moisture, from the melting snow. We are walking down and in the afternoon it gets lighter with less snow on the trail but mud and trail streams make it impossible to keep feet dry, just give up trying to walk around. Go for it step right in the puddle or mud pool. Slowly the day is dissolving into a beautiful afternoon. We arrive at the shelter and meet Fizz, practicing to walk the PCT. The gang arrives and Heavy Weight shortly after, he has walked 22 miles to catch up with us. Tomorrow to Green Corner to resupply. 

We are back at New Found Gap saying good bye to our wonderful Trail Magic. It is an amazingly beautiful day. Eveready seems in good form so we are off to walk the ridge. 

After a couple of hours of up and down we are walking the 8M ridge, it is the most beautiful or our walk so far. Incredible views in both directions, it you don't pay attention you would fall a long way down. Amazingly beautiful. 

At times it feels like you are walking through a movie set, constantly changing set from winter to summer to winter to spring. The snow of the day before lies thick in the shadows but is completely melted in the sunny spots. Truly inspirational. 

At last we are at the cut off for the shelter .5M off the trail which everyone hates. We are full up tonight, 18 crammed in, should be cozy.

It is so cold. All night we were cold. The air is freezing the end of my nose, the only thing sticking out of my sleeping bag. The thought of having to get up and take of my sleep shirt and put on my hiking clothes is overwhelming and numbing my brain to inaction. But nature is calling and you just have to be brave and conquer the elements. That transition, though is always the hardest. Someone is has gone out and I hear that them say there is 4 inches of snow on the ground! We knew it could happen, we are in the Smokies above 6000ft. we knew it could snow. But it is 12F/-11C and knowing and being in it doesn't make it any more comfortable. 

Big effort, up, dressed, bags packed, fingers frozen, water frozen in the water bottles. Shelter mates give us water water, warming hands over the stove as water boils. Porridge never tasted so good., big cup of hot tea, We have to get going because we are freezing. There is really at least 4 inches of snow on the ground. 

We are on the trail and the sky is clear. The trees are laden with snow, it is beautiful, but the rhododendrons are not happy. The mud is frozen so the going is easy. Our friend of the last few shelters, Slip is with us and we are making good progress. We are headed for New Found Gap. No one says it but we are hoping for Trail Magic. We arrive the parking lot is empty save for a few cars with snow on them, overnight hikers (they picked a really cold time to go to the mountains.) Our shelter mates are here they are expecting a pick up to Gatlinburg but have found out the road is closed. They are hanging out in the bathroom building which is heated, we join them. Flush toilets an unexpected luxury. They have removed the sinks to prevent thru hikers from taking a bath in them, so inconsiderate!

The is a lot of noise coming from the parking lot. We step out to see hundreds of people in tee shits and shorts rushing around in the sunshine taking photos of the mountains. Gatlinburg is a tourist destination of choice, it is spring break and there is snow on the Smokies. We can't believe the pandemonium. 

We are approached by a lovely blond lady who offers us a sandwich and coffe. This is Beth and her husband Bernie who have been driving up from Florida every year for the past 8 to celebrate their anniversary by providing Trail Magic to thru-hikers for a full week. Incredible. The back of their SUV is like a general store and they are giving everything away for free. It is wonderful to know what kindness and generosity exists in the world. 

We are finally back on the trail and hoping to put in another 10 miles. It is spectacularly beautiful although still cold. Suddenly Arlene can't lift one of her legs. She has likely pulled a hip flexor in an earlier fall and just can't do it. We are standing on the trail trying to decide what to do. Several of our friends who overnighted in Gatlinburg are passing us. Finally, we are say a tearful goodbye to Slip who needs to press on and we are headed back down the trail to the parking lot. I call Beth and ask who might give us a ride, she says look for a guy in a white pickup his name is God Speed, he will help. There are a lot of vehicles in the lot, but God Speed is obvious. We explain we need to go to Gatlinburg and rest for the day. Right behind him in a VW Golf are two women whom we passed just a half hour before on the trail. They say they will take us. As we get organized, Edith and Mel offer us a bed and company for the evening. What trail angels there are here in Gatlinburg. We are enjoying a wonderful evening. Pizza out at the Italian place, clothes washed, a shower, life it so grand!

Really there should be far more stories in the news about the good, kind, generous, selfless people in the world who just offer strangers warmth and comfort from the bottom of their hearts. Thank you Beth and Bernie, Edith and Mel, you made our day better than we could ever have dreamed.

It is cold and there is snow on the ground. What a difference from a couple of days ago. As we set out the wind whips around us and is relentless. It is a long hike up to Clingman's Dome and we are disappointed here at the top since it is impossible to see anything. Still it is the highest point on the trail and we must get a photo with the Alzheimer Society Flag. We hope that our effort to reach this point might inspire you to make a donation. We know we have a long way to go but we look forward to seeing the updates on Monday when the Alzheimer Society posts the donations received the week before, thank you all for your support, it means so much to us.

We have heard that it will get very cold tonight. Everything we have brought with us we are wearing in our sleeping bags hoping to stay warm.

It doesn't seem to matter what time we get up or whether we are in a shelter or camping, we can't get organized to leaving much before 9. We are working on it.

After yesterday's brutal climb my heels are feeling better. It was worrying because the last thing we want is an injury, that is a game changer. Every step we must be careful to set our feet down solidly because the lightest misstep can mean the end of the trail.

It is beautiful walking with today being the day that so many tiny plants and flowers are peeking through the dead leave carpet, a few over achievers are already flowering. It will be spectacular in the days to come. 

Tonight we are sharing the shelter with Slip, Chainsaw, and Cob...yes, Chainsaw got his name from his snoring! We expect it will be cold tonight.

We are leaving the Hilton it is 8:45. We are on the trail to the Fontana Dam which we cross as we approach the entrance to the entrance to the Great Smoky National Park. It is a beautiful day in the valley. The black flies are a nuisance but as we climb and the wind picks up they disappear. We are at the first stream that crosses the trail and dump our city water to refresh with pure mountain water. We use a filter on water we drink directly from the stream but don't when we boil it for tea or dinners.

We are climbing 2600 feet with a few down and ups thrown in. The last is always the worst it seems. In the Smokys if it mandatory to stay in shelters. This is unfortunate because those of us carrying tents prefer to tent, but we don't want to risk a ticket (alluded to be $500) so we cram into the shelter. It is not late but we are done.  

It is amazing how fixated thru-hikers get at the prospect of resupply and going into a town. We are barely awake and can on think about how to cover the 10 miles between us and Fontana town as quickly as possible. as much as you hope is it difficult to make the miles go by more quickly. We leave early to get to town by early afternoon so we can enjoy a half day off. 

It is a lovely walk down into town with more spring flowers appearing and we see our first trilliums of the season, but not yet in bloom, something to look forward to. Everyone is hurrying to town and from far up on the side of the valley we see the reservoir lake for the Fontana Dam. It is huge. It seems close but is not, we are still contouring down around the valleys bringing the town slowly closer. The path now ends at the road but we realize we have another 1.5 miles to go to reach the Fontana Hilton Shelter. We are pushing on. The shelter is in a beautiful location will full view of the lake. Just up the road is a washroom with flush toilets and showers, we are in heaven, this is truly the 'Hilton"! 

Packs dropped on the bunk platform, there are already plenty there, we are rushing up to the road with our plastic bag with a meager amount of laundry to do in town at the laundromat. The shuttle arrives just as we arrive at the road, great luck, since we can't even imagine walking the road that we drive into town.

There is nothing in Fontana except a laundromat, general store, ice cream parlor and gas station with a grill restaurant, as well, the Fontana Resort. The gang is all here. Doing laundry, drinking beer, eating everything in sight and resupplying food for the next few days. A great afternoon is improved when our friends offer a shower in their resort room, heaven, 4th shower since March 9th!

We are back at the shelter which is full, thank goodness for ear plugs.  Slip is tenting on the ridge which might have been a better idea. The guys have a fire going as the sun sets on the lake. 

It is perfectly still in the early morning, that is a good thing, it means that the rain has stopped. Peeking out of the tent it is spectacular, the valley is full of clouds and the mountain tops are just visible against an impossibly blue sky, magical! The air is cold and again the transition from warm to cold takes a concerted effort. All the hikers camped near us are coming to life and chatting over hot oatmeal and coffee in the early morning sun, nothing can compare. 

It is a steep climb up to Cheoah Bald. We are joined by others just to enjoy the view and revel in how lucky we are to be here. A perfect Alzheimer Flag moment.

The hike down is long. It is funny in your mind as you climb up which is more difficult and takes more energy, that all you can think about is when it will be over and you can go down again. However, on the long way down, toes get squashed and quads scream, and all you can think is when will it end, I'd rather be climbing. But the sun is shining and the view is stunning, perfect hiking weather.

We are at Brown Fork Gap Shelter for water and continue on to Cody Gap camping area, a beautiful spot in the woods. Everything is dried out, no rain, couldn't be better. 

Today is a crazy 5.5m down to the Nantahata Outdoor Centre (NOC) located on the trail, a huge outdoor centre for white water rafting and hiking; then an equally insane 5.5m uphill. It is only later that we find out that NO ONE does this in one day, except of course for Eveready and Unhinged. We are just walking machines. Good thing the map we have doesn't show exactly how tough this is! But the lunch (Sherpa rice and a huge burger) at NOC gives us a little reprieve. There was distraction though in the beautiful spring flowers that are poking through as we descend into the valley. As I'm a flower freak you will all need to endure these pictures as the flowers app

We start out from NOC and a relentless 3.5 hours of climbing brings us to Sassafras Gap Shelter, where we camp just off the trail, it has started to rain. Our friend Slip, aptly named just tonight,as he went down to the shelter with his dinner and slipped on the muddy path leaving half the chicken and rice there for critters to enjoy. Slip offered to made the trek down to the stream with our water bottles, we are so grateful. We are hunkered inside my tent with the stove fired up in the vestibule. It is pouring. Slip comes by and offers to hang our food bags with his on a bear line he has strung. Now we love him!! The rain is not quitting, we are waiting for a lull so we can pee. It is dark now and time to sleep. 

The total change was 5000 ft!

It is perfectly still and dark. The sky is ablaze with stars, more than I've ever seen before. It is cold. It is time to get up, 4C. But thankfully, no rain. The best strategy for making the transition from warm sleeping bag to cold clothes is as quickly as possible, limit the suffering :). We are considering walking on with out breakfast but the allure of hot oatmeal and tea irresistible. Now we are ready, it is a brilliant day. We are just a mile from our campsite and already we need to remove jackets, it is too hot. The sun is warm and views are spectacular, at 5290ft, the mountain tops in the distance peek through the clouds and the valleys are hidden in billowing clouds. It seems every step gives us a more beautiful perspective, progress is slow, we stop to admire to risk not falling on our faces. 

The trail is in great shape. The forest is completely different with evidence of a forest fire probably 50 years ago allowing huge new growth on the forest floor. The tree are densely packed together with golden birch and suddenly a beech grove. We climb up for awhile and come to the top of a bald, with a magnificent tower on the top Bartram Tower. We meet two lovely girls who share our photo of the Alzheimer Society flag.

Spring is near. Tiny leaves are beginning to peak through the carpet of dead leaves that blanket the forest floor. The sun is out, walking is a pleasure. The forest is still save the occasional birds along the path. We have seen nuthatches, blue birds, robins and juncos. 

Legs are tired and suddenly two smiling (and very good looking) faces in front of us, It is Jellybean and his room mate, hiking up the trail with Trail Magic, they are offering us apples, and Gatoraid just at the perfect moment. We are thrilled with the generosity.

It is after 5 and we are just arriving at the camping area, it has been a long day. There is little flat ground. All the tents are slightly tilted, looks like someone was drunk when they set them out. A few people in the shelter which is a 3 sided structure with a roof extended over the open side for cooking, usually with a bench and table structure. 

All is quiet now, the sky has gone dark, tomorrow will be a big day.

It is early, 630 and we are up and raring to go. the Weather Network says welcome to the first day of spring, forecast 6 inches of snow in Virginia and the north of where we are. Only 20% chance of rain in the next few days, we are happy!

The wonderful people at the Baptist Church provide free breakfast for all thru-hikers every morning for a month.We are fortunate to be able to enjoy pancakes and bacon, juice and coffee to fuel our big day back on the trail.

Our wonderful shuttle driver is at the motel to pickup up at 9. We are the last ones off the bus as we need to return to Rock Gap and walk through to Winding Stair Gap. As we step back onto the trail and look at the white blaze we think, "right, only 2083.2 miles to go, let's get on with it!" Everyone else is ahead of us. But the views are amazing after we climb up, the mountains peaking out from the clouds hanging heavy in the valley. Just amazingly beautiful. Soon enough we are walking in the clouds. Not much visibility. The forest has changed, there are golden birch and beech trees as well as the massive oaks. 

As there is nothing to be seen in the distance I am focused on what is under my feet. It is wonderful to see the myriad of plants driven by their evolution to come forth in the cyle of the season. It is spring. We are having an excellent day.

We have completed 10 miles but there is an ominous feeling in the air. We are familiar with it. Sure enough within minutes it begins to drizzle, then with increasing authority the rain assaults us. We haul out the rain gear and decide to forego the campsite a couple of hours away. We are by ourselves on the top of a mountain at 5290 feet with a spring nearby. The perfect place to set up our tents. We are having tea and snacks. Dinner is soup and flat bred with salami and cheese. We are dry and warm snuggled in our sleeping bags in our tents. Suddenly we hear gun fire which seems quite loud. In this beautiful remote spot in the mountains we realize that we are camping above a firing range in the valley below. Thankfully it is quiet as the sun goes down.

Well deserved couple of days off after 9 days straight on the trail in less than perfect weather. We wait patiently for the shuttle bus into Franklin after a very short walk from the shelter. It is cold and we now can't wait for the shower.

The people of Franklin NC are amazing. Ron Haven is the bus driver and owns several establishments in town. We are enjoying a great room at a very reasonable price .He provides shuttles for walker several times a day all around town all for no cost. Three Eagles Outfitters offers walkers a free beer or coffee, like that is a tough decision! Walmart is the hikers choice for resupply.

We are doing serious surgery to our packs, Arlene is doing that literally by cutting pieces off her pack. I on the other hand have purged a further 3 pounds of stuff I thought I needed. The fear is gone! We know what we need and what we don't need.

It is 7 am and a shuttle arrives provided by the Baptist Church whose volunteers make pancake and bacon breakfast for hikers all of this month for free every morning. What incredibly generous and kind people here in Franklin. A true AT thru-walkers support town.

We have reached 100 miles!! Top of Albert Mountain at the fire tower.

You can see in photo 4 a very tiny fire tower on the top of the mountain. It looks far away and almost unreachable. We are on the approach trail and there is a walk around. But no 'true' AT hiker does the walk around. So up we head a very stiff scramble up near vertical rocks and many log steps. There are several other hikers at the tower all lying in the sun and taking in the 360 degree view. It is amazing. What an accomplishment, we are proud.

We are pushing through to the shelter near the Rock Gap where we can pick up a shuttle into Franklin tomorrow. In the shelter we are enjoying the company of some young men who are walking the trail in the absence of a life plan. Seems like a great thing to do.

Tomorrow a shower, laundry and a bed!

Fantastic sunrise we are not thinking of old sayings related to red sky in the morning. A rigorous climb directly out of Bly Gap up Couthouse Bald. It is pretty steep and we are winded at the top. But everything is perfect. These are the moments that you internalize. No drama nothing really to write about since unless you can see it for yourself it is impossible to let you see, hear and smell the beauty.

Now the dreaded Standing Indian Mountain, 5,498ft looms before us. Turns out that the switchbacks are generous and while we are still climbing to the top it is not feeling like we are trying to climb up the side of a building. I notice that we have walked unexpectedly into a white pine forest. Soaring trees! Also the ever encroaching rhododendrons are well established and while beautiful when in bloom they are so dense that they block out all the light for any native growth to survive. They do make a wonderful canopy to walk up creating almost perfect shade.

The trail seems a little rougher in N Carolina. The trail volunteers have likely not been out yet to do their work. There are lots of wind blown trees across the path and rocks and roots which require our constant attention to prevent an ankle twist. I am at our destination of Beech Gap and walk down a little side trail to a stream. We set up camp just off the main trail and a MoPack joins us late, she was with us at Bly Gap last night.  It is nice to sit and we are hungry. The egg soup is not really adequate for dinner, luckily I have Scott's pasta so we are not feeling hungry. The number of calories we are burning is increasing. We are walking about 8 hours per day. It has been another great day on the AT.

It is clear and dry and we have a long day ahead. We set off about 9am and feel great, before noon we are in Dicks Creek Gap where a few people are heading into Hiawassee to dry out and resupply. It is amazing that within a couple of hours it is hard to tell that it has rained at all. Blue skies light breeze. We are on top of the world.

How quickly emotions change it is only a couple of hours from being on top of the world. The map is entirely misleading! What looks like gentle ups and downs nothing exceeding 500ft is turning into a grueling uphill marathon that does not quit!!!. I know in my mind that it can't just be up all the time but it certainly feels that way. The trail again skirts along the contour of the mountain with the valley falling away hundreds of feet below. The tree are majestic and huge. There is very little undergrowth so the canopy in the summer must be quite dense. Now, however, we can see through the forest to the mountains beyond. It is beautiful as we summit one mountain and head into the next gap and then up the next mountain, it is exhausting and it is wearing us down, our feet really hurt. Don't forget our packs are still heavy with wet stuff.

Strange things that flip into your mind as you walk. As I struggle up and down the hills for hours I am thinking of people over the ages who have been forced to walk unbelievable distances in terrible conditions with little or no footwear or provisions.  Due to their own choice in fleeing conflict or forced marches under the unrelenting and merciless tyranny of conquering peoples their sense of fear, pain and suffering must always be monumental. I have the latest of high tech lightweight gear, am well fed and have nothing to fear and...I am doing this of my own free will. I am saying to myself, suck it up...and then, the Georgia -- North Carolina State line, we have made it out of our first state. One down 13 to go. The sign is truly understated. But we feel like we champs.

The campsite at Bly Gap is within view of the state line sign. There are a few people already set up. Quickly everything is out of the packs and draped over trees and shrubs to dry. It feels amazing that the sky is blue and while it is cooling off quickly as the sun drops on the horizon. We are feeling pretty great with our accomplishment.

This is starting to sound like a broken record. I am lying in my tent in the dark before 7 am. I can't remember when I have been out in such torrential rain. I am stilling lying here at 9 because it is not stopping. I'm trying to think what to do. It's not possible to go out, thankfully we are dehydrated enough that we don't pee during the night, not a good thing but something I am feeling grateful for at the moment.

I finally think of turning on my phone to see if there is connectivity. Someone out there in the world should know how wet and miserable we are feeling. There is a text message from Arlene. She is in her tent and we are about 20 feet apart but you can't shout to be heard over the pounding of the rain. She says lets wait a bit, I'm thinking let's wait until tomorrow. It is now after 10 and Arlene is at my tent saying she is packing up. It has unbelievably stopped raining and is only drizzling. We see what a beautiful spot we are in. It is a rhododendron forest. A bit eerie with mist but very pretty. I have to say it again, everything is wet. Our packs are at least 5 lbs heavier because of that. We have our porridge and coffee which helps to lift our soggy spirits.

We are on the side of Tray Mountain and heading to the top and over. Thankfully the rain has stopped. Instantly I feel happier. I see a tiny glimmer of blue sky and take a photo of it. It is gone in 5 minutes. It is perfect hiking weather, overcast, cool breezy and the rain has cleared the air.

It is now midafternoon, getting chilly because a couple of long uphill climbs. My knees are hurting, tomorrow I will try the braces Arlene has been wearing the past few days. The sky is filling with ominous clouds again, and we arrive at Addis Gap where our friends Apogee and Plyro are planning to camp. This is 3m short of our goal but I am feeling really tired, convinced my pack is now probably closer to 45 rather than 35 lbs. We decide that we will stay as well, our friends walk down the .5m trail twice to get water. We are so grateful.

Our milestone today, we passed the 100km distance!!! Sleep will not be not difficult tonight.

It is insane how windy it was last night, howling in the trees and across the mountain tops. It made me reconsider the wisdom of camping high up rather than in the gap below, however, right now is not a great time to change our mind. Hoping that my 'tissue paper' tent, it's called Cuban fiber but really looks like tissue paper, will hold up to the gale.

Dawn slowly brightens the sky and we are peeking out to see the nights' damage. Nothing serious but best of all very little rain. The ground is pretty much dry but the 5C/41F feels pretty chilly. The pocket rocket stove is boiling up our litre of water for porridge and coffee. Nothing tastes better and the high test porridge holds us for more than half the day.

It is still a struggle for us to get organized and on the trail in an expedient manner in the morning. Hard to understand when everything you have fits in one bag. It is 9 and we are stepping forth with vigor, fortified by sleep and food. The path is up slightly but not difficult, we dare not say that maybe we have beaten the rain and will luck out with another dry day.

It is not even a good idea to have those thoughts. We are walking for about an hour and the rain starts. This is not just your basic drizzle or shower, this is pelting bullet rain, soak you in a second rain, it is all we can do to get into our rain jackets and cover up. Arlene is wearing her fashionable garbage bag skirt again and I am wrapping a groundsheet around my waist. There is nothing to do but walk, so we walk...for hours...in the rain... my mind is wandering, I am warm, my feet, hands and head are warm, I'm in a warm bubble, walking along like an autotron on a trail in the woods. It feels otherworldly. I am watching myself walk along, the trail circumvents the valley fairly high up, so there is cloud and howling wind above on one side and dropping away many 100 feet into the valley filled with mist on the other. Swollen streams and riverlets dissect the trail at unpredictable intervals occasionally requiring some acrobatics of balance with packs, poles, rain gear, skirts and then the warm bubbles move on.

Things are changing now, as the trail climbs at  a more vertical angle we're sweating like crazy, very unfortunate that the great rain jackets which are supposed to keep us dry are now acting like plastic bags in which to collect our perspiration. But the wind and rain is not abating and it is too cold to remove the jackets. What to do but trudge on wet on the inside and outside. We have reached Blue  Mountain Shelter and like just about everyone else on the trail who weren't smart enough to go into town last night before the predicted rain, we are trying to have a quick bite to eat for lunch. We can't stay long because it is much to cold to stay still. We descend a long hill into Unicoi Gap and there is a line up for the shuttle to a hostel, clear some people have the presence of mind to get out of the rain, we do not. Scott is leaving the trail and going home, his wife is ill, we are all sorry to see him go. He is giving away his food and like vultures, those of us brave (or stupid) enough to push on are clawing for the spoils. I scored a mac and cheese bacon flavoured SideKicks and a chicken and vegetable pasta. More weight but food never gets wasted on the trail.

We have 3.6m/5.8km to get to our planned destination, how hard can that be? We are clearly not thinking straight since a little closer examination of the map would have shown us that we have a 1200 foot climb over Rocky Mountain, down the other side and then another 1 mile up the next mountain past Indian Gap.  We are setting off, good thing we don't fully understand what is in store, there is no let up over and down, the trail is streaming mud and the rocks are treacherously slippery. A few hundred feet up the trail we meet an older couple of Georgian Trail worker volunteers out repairing the trail. We tell them how grateful we are for the fantastic condition of the trails. They too are trail magic. Even through the rain we see how beautiful the forest is. Wide open with soring trees and brilliant moss and lichens.

It doesn't seem unreasonable that if a campsite is called Cheese Factory that you might expect there to be something there telling you that. It is clearly written on the map. I am exhausted and exasperated since here are many camping spots but no one is here and there is no sign, it is still raining insanely hard and this is much farther than I had thought it would be. I am trying to set my pack down to minimize how wet it will get, right! I have my tent out and up in record time, throw in my pack and sit down and look at my boots. Now I don't know how far back Arlene is. A young guy shows up but he clearly can't think either and doesn't remember seeing anyone on the trail. I know that can't be right. Finally, there she is, weary, wet and very happy to be at Cheese Factory. The stove is on and water is boiling, hot tea never tasted so good and the corn chowder was delicious. There is a stream a little way down a path so we have water. Water everywhere but we are quite dehydrated. Everything is wet. How do you dry your socks, shirt, jacket, underwear in the rain? We are in our damp sleeping bags listening to the thundering rain on the tents.

It is 830 and the guys are about to head back to Ottawa and we are back on the trail with clean clothes resupplied food and packs that are way too heavy! I am carrying 38lbs and Arlene 32. There is long distance walking wisdom that says the difference between what you need and what you think you need is fear. I am carrying about 10lbs of fear! That will be whittled down in the days to come, I hope!

We are walking through lovely forest and the views are beautiful. The colours again are spectacular even though there is little that has yet awaken to the spring. The moss, lichens, fungi and ferns are jewels on the forest floor and clinging to the long dead trunks of massive trees. The forest is mostly oak. The ground is scattered with acorns. I strikes me that there are almost no squirrels. I guess generations of them have migrated to become urban and suburban opportunists. I feel sad that they have left this beautiful forest with plentiful food, they don't know what they are missing.

It is passed lunch time and we haven't had a break. We come out of the forest to cross a road and there is a gentleman parked waiting for his wife. He is 'slack packing' her. Our trail friends Apogee and Plyro also show up. Wonderfully he gives us a little trail magic in the form of water and tiny Snickers bars (a hikers best friend). Foot weary he whips out chairs for Arlene and Plyro to rest a moment, such simple acts of kindness that are so meaningful when you are tired. We bid him good bye and wish his wife well and continue on our way.

We know our destination based on the guide book, a camp site just past Low Gap Shelter. We are tired, it is late afternoon and we have been walking pretty much non-stop for 8 hours. Our feet and knees are feeling the weight of our overloaded packs. Not stopping to go downhill to the shelter we walk on. It is now an hour and a quarter since we passed the shelter, we have clearly missed the campsite and have climbed up a considerable distance from the gap. We pick a nice spot to put our tents under some big oak and white pines.

Thankful to finally be relieved of our packs we set up the tents and realize there is no water anywhere near to where we are and we are not walking very far to look for it. Luckily, there are our compatriot "old guys' Steve and Scott, they too have missed the infamous campsite. We invite them to camp and they thankfully share some water with us. Spirit of the trail. We set about getting dinner organized. The wind is beginning to howl and the sky is clouding over, the forecast is rain...

Again it rains all night, we are expecting the guys so lie awake in anticipation of their arrival. At 6 we start to pack up in the dark, everything is wet and muddy outside. Our Trail Magic happens at 730 when Barry and Greg arrive with coolers filled with fresh coffee they made at the cabin they are staying at. Barry goes around offering coffee at the doors of the tents of other campers, they are in awe, it hits the spot! It is dark here until 730 when the sky breaks with a stunning sunrise. A great omen for the day ahead, we are hoping for less rain.

We 'off-load' much of our wet and dirty gear (called slack-packing, where your pack is carried forward to the next destination) and set off into the beautiful morning. Muscle memory is coming back from the many years of walking long distance trails, it feels good, it feels right to be here, today will be an awesome day! Even though it is the beige/grey of early spring there are remarkable moments of brilliant colour. The forest, yet without leaves, is see-through so we can appreciate the mountains beyond. After walking 3 hours we stop for a quick rest and snack. We want to make haste because the rain is forecast to return in the afternoon.

And return it does, pelting relentlessly, the worst we have had. We just summit Blood Mountain and enter the shelter at the top, the highest peak so far, the skies open. We have 1.5 miles down to Neel Gap where husbands and a cabin with  a shower, good food and maybe a beer or two are waiting. No worry about how wet or dirty we get. We are careful not to slip because then the game is over, but we manage to descend in about an hour and see the famous outfitter store at the road. In the tree there are hundreds of pairs of boots and footwear from thru-walkers who have 'thrown in the shoe'! Twenty percent of hikers quit here in Neel Gap. Not us. We wash our clothes, dry tents and bags, enjoy our last wonderful dinner together with husbands for 50 days. We will be off at the break of day. 

The rain begins in the night. It is relentless, pounding on the tent, sometimes a little lighter, sometimes a little heavier but never stops. You lie there snug in your sleeping bag wondering how you will get up in the morning, get dressed, make breakfast, fold up the tent and get on your way. Then you doze off and wake to the sound of pounding rain. And the light finally comes and peeking out of the tent everything is soaked But the little stove is happy to boil water and the porridge is delicious. Blueberries and strawberries make it extra special. We move slow and it takes time to organise a pack full of wet things but we manage. Arlene is all decked out with a garbage bag skirt and umbrella cap, no way she plans to get wet. 

The rain doesn't let up for most of the day. There is nothing to do but walk, no views, no place to sit and relax so we press on. We go up we go down, the wind blows hard at times when we come around a corner outcrop and it hits us full on. Anda walks ahead to Woody Gap to find a tent site. She comes upon two men just wrapping up their offering of Trail Magic to hikers. They had been set up since 11 a.m. and were giving making and giving away McMuffins and hotdogs. As well they had water and coke. As they were just about done putting everything away they offered several bottles of water which were gratefully accepted. 

The rain finally stopped long enough to set up camp. The dehydrated yogurt for dessert looked less than appetising and ended up not making it to the table. Plenty of people ended their long wet day close to our campsite. We had more trail magic as a young could came up to the site about 7p.m. and made a big fire and brought lots of hot chocolate and 5 gallons of water for all the campers. It is such an amazing feeling to receive such generosity from people you don't know and will likely never meet again. These guys were great, turns out they are making a year book for 2015 Thru-Hikers and they were taking pictures and info on everyone camping. They had both thru-hiked a few years ago and just couldn't let it go. What a wonderful way to end a long day. 

What an amazing feeling to be finally walking away on the Appalachian Trail, north bound thru-hikers, class of 2015. The guys drop us at the parking lot where we descended from Springer yesterday afternoon. It is overcast and breezy but we are excited to be off! The trail is not difficult as we walked through rhododendron forest encroaching into the underbrush, a few ups and downs. We make good progress stopping after 3 hours for a quick lunch. We are still marvelling at the fact that we are here and walking 'the trail'.

We met a few nice people at the Hostel, most of whom are starting today as well. We will see them in the days, weeks and months ahead. Our trail names are Arlene: 'Everyready' and Anda: 'Unhinged'. On the Trail everyone has a name and you are known by that name up and down the Trail. You sign into Shelter logs with your trail name and no one knows you as anything else. It feels like being reborn or hiding from your real life, like you can be anyone you want to be for the duration of the hike. 

We settle on a campsite in the woods around 4 to avoid the walk down into Horse Gap. Arlene is feeling a little twinge in her knee so erring to caution will pay off. Tents set up and our miserly 'stuff' spread out for reorganization. There is a momentary panic when Anda can't  find the tea bags she is sure were in her pack. After a mad search success and we enjoy a wonderful cup of tea and amazing hazelnut biscuits Mary had sent along. We enjoy our first of what will be many freeze dried meals; vegetables with couscous and sausage. It tastes like gourmet, really delicious. We find a suitable branch to hang our food on the bear line from, after several tries we snag a branch and hoist up the bags. 

Twilight to dark is from 7:30-8:00. We are snug in our tents and bags by 8, konked out by 8:05. Incredible how quickly sleep comes when you have walked all day. 

We jumped the gun! We decided to take advantage of the amazing weather today and hike to the top of Springer Mountain so we would not have to do the back track tomorrow. Unfortunately the next few days are forecast to be overcast and rainy so the sun and wonderful 15C temperature was irresistible .  Thru-hikers Everyready (Arlene) and Unhinged (Anda) are ready and motivated to begin. You will hear from us again in a few days. 

Ivan got up this morning to make amazing omelettes and with Liesha's apple muffins, coffee and orange wedges we were well fueled for the long day ahead. First, a photo shoot at Baltimore harbour. Arlene and I raring to go. Just 12 hours in the car beteen this picture and arriving somewhat bedraggled in Georgia at 8 this evening. all was go I ng well until the extra half hour we deove because we missed the hostel sign on a curvey road in the dark.

No doubt, tomorrow will be a great day.  Inspect, check and recheck...and the we are off!

Our departure was slightly delayed from Ottawa on Friday morning, March 6. After last minute finalizing of 'to be mailed' packages and stuffing the car with all the things we need...and might need, we headed down the 416 to the border crossing at Hill Island. Our customs agent was friendly and somewhat taken aback when the ladies in the car said they would be gone for 6 months walking from Georgia to Maine. He asked the guys how long they would be in the States and they said about a week. He laughed and said 'so you guys are running the trail?!'...funny guy.

We arrived without incident about 9 hours later in Baltimore to a wonderful welcome,celebration and amazing pasta veggie sauce dinner from Liesha and Ivan. Ivan baked a special 'trail bread' which is amazing. Gotta love the kids! 

If you can help that would be wonderful. The Alzheimer Society will be posting the new total here on this website every Monday. Watch for it! We will be getting our inspiration from watching the total climb as we climb the mountains along the trail. Your donations will make a difference in supporting much needed research and services for people suffering from Alzheimers.

http://alzheimerottawa.ca/five-million-steps-for-alzheimers/

Arlene has dehydrated 65 dinners for us to carry. We will be packing about 5-7 days of food at a time. Some will be delivered via husbands at resupply points others via mail drops at towns in between. No AT living on instant noodles for us!!